We stayed at Hotel Belmar in Monteverde. At first I was disappointed that we didn't have a room that faced the beautiful view, but after spying a mot-mot from our forest-facing room we realized our room had its own benefits. If you are a birder I recommend staying in room #14, the "canopy room" in the chalet because you can literally lay in bed and bird at the same time. I also loved eating breakfast on their open-air terrace shown below.
On our one full day we drove up to the reserve and hiked over to the continental divide. Although we didn't see a quetzal, I did love finding these ghostly fairy mushrooms above. George and I also hiked the trail up to the radio towers behind our hotel, but I do not recommend that hike. It was just a road that went up and up and more up. Usually you can at least glimpse some interesting birds on such a walk, but our only rewards for all that effort was a crazy black caterpillar with spiky yellow "hair" (see below) and two pairs of extra sore legs.
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