Her distress hollowed a crater in her being
Her tears formed a lake.
Almost succumbing, she remembered the ancient song
The Goddess of Transformation appeared,
"Fear not, I protect all beings
I will ferry you across the ocean."
A blue lotus emerged from her heart
Radiant like the sun
A rainbow emerged
And the quetzal flew to higher ground
ANTIGUA
In February, my friend Joyanne and I met before our sketching workshop and travelled to Lake Atitlán, Guatemala. In my first two posts, Part 1 and Part 2, I described our first days at the lake. In this post, we travel to the timeless, cobblestone city of Antigua.
Our taxi driver, Josue, was amazing. He drove us both to the lake and back again, and I enjoyed practicing my Spanish. Unfortunately for us, we were arriving to Antigua on a Saturday during Lenten season. That meant all the roads of Antigua were shut down. Josue tried and tried to get us closer to the posada, but was rejected at every turn. So Joyanne and I had to walk a good six or seven blocks dragging our heavy luggage over cobblestones navigating very heavy human traffic due to La Processión!
 |
| Me, Josue, and Joyanne |
La Processión
La Processión is an amazing, massive celebration of faith during the Lenten season. Devout bearers carry heavy andas (wooden floats) of religious statues through the streets, accompanied by a marching band and hundreds of tourists. The first time I saw it was six years ago. It was in the evening and we heard the music approaching during our dinner. I remember running out and being enveloped in a mystical scene...copal incense in the air, somber discordant music, and the purple-robed figures marching with their ornate burdens.
When Joyanne and I reached the posada, sweaty and exhausted, we agreed to take a rest and meet later. But we heard the music approaching. So we rallied ourselves and were lucky to catch the procession one street over. It never fails to make an impact on me.
Doors
After returning to our hotel, we met our sketching group and headed out for dinner. The setting sun lit our walk with the most incredible light. And I could hardly help myself from running back and forth across the street to photograph this or that.
I absolutely love the doors of Antigua.
The ornate door knockers and clavos (door studs) are truly works of art.
First Day of Sketching
I decided to sketch one of the headless statues in the facade of the ruin. As I sketched, a pigeon landed where the head should be.
The interior of the modern section of the building was stunning with its painted blue walls and perfectly manicured grounds.
After finishing our sketches we walked home. I am always on the lookout for interesting subjects and this man selling ice cream caught my eye (at least that is my guess as to what he was selling).
I was also enamored with the color of the ruddy patina on this old wall.
And look at the tiles under this roof overhand!
When we returned back to the posada, Amy did a couple demos. She has a wonderful way of teaching and meeting everyone where they are at. I learn something new every time I take one of her courses. She also has the most incredible collection of handmade Beam paints (below). In addition, she is an amazing artist! Below you can see a small painting she did of the volcanos.
After working on our sketchbooks we went to dinner at Frida's and I had delicious fish tacos.
Nimpot
The restaurant is next to one of my favorite stores in Antigua...Nimpot. Nimpot is a CRAZY store chock full of everything imaginable under the sun. These photos give just a small taste of its abundance.
On the way home we walked through the famous Arco.
La Enfermedad
Earlier in the day I had noticed that my neck hurt. I figured I just had "sketcher's neck" from looking down at my book so much. But after dinner, when I got back to my room, I started to feel slightly nauseous. And soon enough I felt EXTREME nausea. I don't know about you, but when I experience nausea, it has a mental component. My mind was spiraling in repetitive thoughts.
In those seemingly eternal moments of discomfort, the memory of an old mantra started coming to me. I found this mantra during the beginning of Covid and learned it to help ease my stressed-out mind. The mantra invokes Tara … “Om Tare Tuttare Ture Sarva Vyadhi-bhyo Raksham Kuru Swaha.” It offers protection from diseases, and I found it in the book, “Shakti Mantras” by Thomas Ashley-Farrand. As the mantra slowly came back to me, I felt myself calming down. Something about those words steadied me inwardly and gave some relief to my beleaguered mind and body.
“Praying well meant one had to learn to speak in a measured rhythm, beautifully, dramatically, with no pauses, and to breathe in such a way that one never lost the prayer or image being shot like bright-colored birds out of the heart.” —Martin Prechtel
When the nausea started to subside, I started feeling cold. I was so cold I didn't want to get out from under the covers to get another blanket. Eventually I felt I would die of cold if I didn't. When I stood up I was shaking so terribly I could hardly walk, and I could hear my teeth chatter echo off the walls. I figured I would feel better after the fever broke. At some point in the night I finally got really really hot. By the morning I thought things had run their course.
The following day I still wasn't well enough to go sketching with the group. But I ventured across the street to find a breakfast of bananas and yogurt. I wasn't so sick I couldn't appreciate the incredible view of the volcano from my table. And the view from the restaurant window of the smoking volcano was fantastic (above).
Casa Santo Domingo
I think the third day I finally thought I could go with the group. I was surprised how terrible I felt on the walk to our destination. But I really wanted to go because we were visiting Casa Santo Domingo. This hotel, museum and spa is stunningly gorgeous.
The top right image below is a photo of one of the alfombras (rugs). During the Lenten season they arrange beautiful designs on the streets and floors made of fruits, vegetables, flowers, grains, seeds, sand and/or sawdust.
La Esmerelda
After we left the fancy hotel we walked to a nearby restaurant. I don't remember the name, but this restaurant had lovely private tables towards the back that were enclosed with plants. Someone suggested I should go and see them, and I was floored to see this turquoise beauty. When I got home I looked it up...it is a Jade plant, also referred to in Spanish as La Esmerelda.
The next day we followed Rosemary (Amy's second in command) to breakfast. I love this photo of her in her red cape leading us across the cobblestone streets of Antigua with the volcano in the background.
I was so very sad that I was still just eating bananas and yogurt. These two photos show what some of the others ordered for breakfast...avocado toast (upper) and shakshuka (lower).
El Carmen
One of my favorite ruins was called El Carmen and happened to be just down the street from where we stayed. When I visited eight years ago it was truly in ruins. The resotration progress has been remarkable.
My favorite parts of this building are the ornate carved stone columns.
Below you can see the whole spread of this page in my sketchbook.
When Joyanne and I reached the posada, sweaty and exhausted, we agreed to take a rest and meet later. But we heard the music approaching. So we rallied ourselves and were lucky to catch the procession one street over. It never fails to make an impact on me.
After returning to our hotel, we met our sketching group and headed out for dinner. The setting sun lit our walk with the most incredible light. And I could hardly help myself from running back and forth across the street to photograph this or that.
On the first day of sketching our group headed out to visit La Cooperación Española, a cultural and educational center of the Spanish Embassy. Part of the property has an old ruin that caught our attention.
"Accept that some days you are the pigeon,
and some days you are the statue."
― David Brent
The interior of the modern section of the building was stunning with its painted blue walls and perfectly manicured grounds.
The restaurant is next to one of my favorite stores in Antigua...Nimpot. Nimpot is a CRAZY store chock full of everything imaginable under the sun. These photos give just a small taste of its abundance.
La Enfermedad
"I felt sick.
I looked to my left where a beautiful, smooth-faced woman the color of a toasted tortilla lay sleeping...
My intestines were made of stars with dark footprints of things that died to feed me in them;
my lungs were windy caves where old people sat shivering;
my liver was a beach of older stars where my fire sat on his throne:
the little quetzal-tailed hummingbird, my new name, still trying to march toward the Sun.
My heart was a lake of liquid jade where the Old Moon Lady sat underneath weeping yet;
my knees were volcanoes.
Lightning struck while I hid in the hollow tree of my ribcage..." —Martin Prechtel
I looked to my left where a beautiful, smooth-faced woman the color of a toasted tortilla lay sleeping...
My intestines were made of stars with dark footprints of things that died to feed me in them;
my lungs were windy caves where old people sat shivering;
my liver was a beach of older stars where my fire sat on his throne:
the little quetzal-tailed hummingbird, my new name, still trying to march toward the Sun.
My heart was a lake of liquid jade where the Old Moon Lady sat underneath weeping yet;
my knees were volcanoes.
Lightning struck while I hid in the hollow tree of my ribcage..." —Martin Prechtel
In those seemingly eternal moments of discomfort, the memory of an old mantra started coming to me. I found this mantra during the beginning of Covid and learned it to help ease my stressed-out mind. The mantra invokes Tara … “Om Tare Tuttare Ture Sarva Vyadhi-bhyo Raksham Kuru Swaha.” It offers protection from diseases, and I found it in the book, “Shakti Mantras” by Thomas Ashley-Farrand. As the mantra slowly came back to me, I felt myself calming down. Something about those words steadied me inwardly and gave some relief to my beleaguered mind and body.
I began singing a beautiful old song I’d heard in a dream...
The prayer was the horse,
the direction was the motion,
and what you were asking for was in the mind.
The heart carried all the images that corresponded to those contained in the prayer,
like an armload of verbal flowers for the Gods....
...shamans have hundreds of prayers,
each acquired in a long, strained, courteous fashion.
They are as precious as a corral full of beautiful horses.”
—Martin Prechtel
 |
| When I got home and sketched the view from my bed, I was reminded of a book by Martin Prechtel, “Secrets of the Talking Jaguar.” The typed quotes are from his book (which takes place in Guatemala) and seemed to fit my situation perfectly. The descriptions of his illness mirrored mine and were so evocative and lovely. |
“Praying well meant one had to learn to speak in a measured rhythm, beautifully, dramatically, with no pauses, and to breathe in such a way that one never lost the prayer or image being shot like bright-colored birds out of the heart.” —Martin Prechtel
When the nausea started to subside, I started feeling cold. I was so cold I didn't want to get out from under the covers to get another blanket. Eventually I felt I would die of cold if I didn't. When I stood up I was shaking so terribly I could hardly walk, and I could hear my teeth chatter echo off the walls. I figured I would feel better after the fever broke. At some point in the night I finally got really really hot. By the morning I thought things had run their course.
Unfortunately, that is when the tummy troubles began. I spent the whole day in my room in bed (and the bathroom 😥). Amy was lovely and brought me soup, and I have never been so thankful.
Casa Santo Domingo
I think the third day I finally thought I could go with the group. I was surprised how terrible I felt on the walk to our destination. But I really wanted to go because we were visiting Casa Santo Domingo. This hotel, museum and spa is stunningly gorgeous.
La Esmerelda
After we left the fancy hotel we walked to a nearby restaurant. I don't remember the name, but this restaurant had lovely private tables towards the back that were enclosed with plants. Someone suggested I should go and see them, and I was floored to see this turquoise beauty. When I got home I looked it up...it is a Jade plant, also referred to in Spanish as La Esmerelda.
La Esmerelda represents spiritual protection, emotional resilience,
and fearless, intimate engagement with the world. (Google)
One of my favorite ruins was called El Carmen and happened to be just down the street from where we stayed. When I visited eight years ago it was truly in ruins. The resotration progress has been remarkable.
"When they locked eyes her heart bloomed with the radiance of a thousand suns."
"If you want to see birds, you must have birds in your heart."
—John Burroughs
Capuchinas
Every year I have been on this trip we go to a beautiful, old convent called Capuchinas. The convent is not far from our posada. But when I arrived I felt terribly weak.
I ended up propping myself against the wall in this corner to sketch. I took some liberties with the bougainvillea pots. But that is the beauty of sketching...you can embellish anything you want.
National Museum of Guatemalan Art
Our final day, Amy suggested we go to the National Museum of Guatemalan Art. It is located in the center of town. I didn't feel so great, but I didn't want to miss out on any more than I already had. I loved the view from the second story.
This was also taken from the second story of the museum and shows the Catedral de San José
The art inside the museum was wonderful. I was especially struck by the powerful presence of this Madonna and Child.
The view of the volcano from the other side of the museum was also impressive. Although I did not feel great, I am glad I went.
Every year I have been on this trip we go to a beautiful, old convent called Capuchinas. The convent is not far from our posada. But when I arrived I felt terribly weak.
Our final day, Amy suggested we go to the National Museum of Guatemalan Art. It is located in the center of town. I didn't feel so great, but I didn't want to miss out on any more than I already had. I loved the view from the second story.
La Recolección
Our very last sketching location was at a ruins called La Recolección. There were now two of us who were ailing (for different reasons) and Amy was nice to send us in a taxi.
While the others were sketching I found a cool dark place to sit. I actually fell asleep in this room for a second.
After my short nap I found the others sketching in the back of the ruins. The church was built in 1717 and suffered through many earthquakes, the worst of which was in 1773. It is now a park and protected national monument.
It is difficult to capture the massiveness of the crumbled stones. But Katie posed for me to give it some scale.
Aside from being unable to go sketching most days, the biggest downside for me was not getting to hang out with the other women (and one lovely man) on this trip. I met Cathy on one of Amy's trips to Taos and I had hoped to spend lots of time with her. Alas, we will have to go again.
Conclusion
In conclusion, I must say a word about the pink bird pot. I was lying in bed for many days on this trip, but I always felt the beauty of my surroundings. Guatemala is a magical place that contains unfathomable beauty as well as miniscule dangers that can bring you to your knees. But there was a radiance I felt even as I cocooned in the darkness of my room… an energy that sustained me and occasionally drew me out to feel the sun on my face. The pink bird pot epitomized the liveliness that both surrounded and held me through the worst of it.
A huge thank you to Amy Bogard for taking care of me during this trip...and also to those who helped tend to me at Posada San Sebastián. Sending so much gratitude your way.
Our very last sketching location was at a ruins called La Recolección. There were now two of us who were ailing (for different reasons) and Amy was nice to send us in a taxi.
Video
It was so fun making this video summary of the Antigua portion of our trip. I used Prezi to zoom in and I liked the effect. Turn on your volume! (Music by Tunetank from Pixabay)
It was so fun making this video summary of the Antigua portion of our trip. I used Prezi to zoom in and I liked the effect. Turn on your volume! (Music by Tunetank from Pixabay)
Conclusion
In conclusion, I must say a word about the pink bird pot. I was lying in bed for many days on this trip, but I always felt the beauty of my surroundings. Guatemala is a magical place that contains unfathomable beauty as well as miniscule dangers that can bring you to your knees. But there was a radiance I felt even as I cocooned in the darkness of my room… an energy that sustained me and occasionally drew me out to feel the sun on my face. The pink bird pot epitomized the liveliness that both surrounded and held me through the worst of it.
The night before my flight home I was still sick as a dog. Things were not improving and I was worried about my ability to fly home. I had a conversation with Amy and mentioned that I had an old prescription of Cipro antibiotic in my toiletry bag. She said, “At this point, I don’t think it would hurt!” I took it and within one hour I felt 100%. (Looking back I don't think it was anything I ate. I drank many limonadas con soda in Panajachel and my guess is that one of them was made with ice from local water.)
The next day I was untouchable. My flight was delayed eight hours due to volcanic ash, I missed my connection, had to spend the night in Houston, and only slept for four hours. But through it all, I was just thankful to be healthy again. I felt unperturbable. I felt a deep inner peace. Although I should have been exhausted from lying in bed for a week and from rough travels, I felt like a “bright-colored bird shot out of the heart.”
 |
| Guatemalan Worry Dolls |
According to Mayan tradition, if you are struggling with anxiety or fear, you whisper your worries to the dolls and place them under your pillow before bed. By morning, the dolls will have carried your worries away, allowing you to wake up refreshed. (Google AI)
If you would like to read the other posts about this trip here are the links:
