Guatemala Sketchbook Trip - Part 3

On the fourth day of the Guatemala sketchbook workshop we visited Casa Santo Domingo.  This hotel was stunningly beautiful and I could barely take two steps into the front portal before I had to stop and take photos of the bowl of floating bougainvillea flowers that greeted us (below).  The hotel grounds are extensive and includes ruins, a giant tented wedding reception/church area, indoor and outdoor restaurant, a pool, and museums.  I am sure I didn't see the half of it. But what caught my eye that day were the ENORMOUS hanging bells hanging in the ruins near the outdoor church.  Several of us sat in the fancy chairs draped in white fabric (probably for a wedding) and sketched the bells.  I wish I had put a person into my sketch to give it some scale because the entire bell structure was probably 50 ft. high. I also added a little textile bling to the side of the sketch to give it a burst of color.

Above you can see one of the gorgeous floral arrangements in the lobby of the hotel.  Again, I don't think you can properly see the scale of this.  It might be better described as a "floral boat" in which I could easily have laid down.  And because it was "Semana Santa" they had a couple of "huertos" (below).  The photo of this vegetable design doesn't do it justice... it was so colorful and bountiful.  

On the way to Casa Santo Domingo I stopped to get my picture taken with this mountain of flowers.  There are benefits to living near the equator!

On the fifth day of the trip we visited the cathedral ruins.  As I mentioned in my last post, there was a severe earthquake in 1773 during which this building suffered extensive damage.  After that earthquake the capital was moved from Antigua to what is now Guatemala City.

It was lovely to sit among the ruins sketching to the sound of the doves cooing.  If you look closely you can see two of my fellow sketchers also drawing the ruins.

One of the most iconic spots in Antigua is "El Arco" (below).  Not only is the structure architecturally interesting...but you can also perfectly frame Volcán Agua through it.  So one morning a few of us woke up early to capture this scene before it got hazy. 

Little did I know that later the same day I would get an even bigger treat.  Not only did I get a photo of the volcano and the arch...but also "La Procesión" coming through! It is hazy because there was so much incense.

Witnessing this event was truly one of the highlights of the trip.  It is certainly not something you see everyday!  Normally I like to at least do a pencil sketch while in situ, but "La Procesión" was always on the move and I am not a purist.  So last night I decided to try and do a quick sketch of the whole scene by working from my photos.  My goal was to be a little looser/quicker than normal.   But I couldn't help myself and started drawing faces on the close people to try and convey the solemnity of the occasion.  I also used a bigger brush than normal for the buildings and really like how fast that made it go and the blobby effect.  As you might be able to tell I am not a new adopter.  Slowly I will loosen up...baby steps...baby steps.

The photo below was taken one day while walking home.  I liked the contrast of the bright building and this "quiet" woman.  I wondered what was in her bag, where she was off to and what she was thinking on her way to somewhere.

I usually try to write something of note at the bottom of these posts... but today I am going to leave you with a bowl of flowers and a lovely quote that my new friend Paula read to us on our last night of the trip.

"The day the mountains move has come.
I speak, but no one believes me.
For a time the mountains have been asleep.
But long ago, they danced with fire.
It doesn't matter if you believe this, my friends, as long as you believe:
All the sleeping women are now awake and moving."

by Yosano Akiko from 1911 first issue of Seito Japanese feminist magazine

If you would like to read the other posts about this trip here are the links:

Guatemala Sketchbook Trip - Part 1

Guatemala Sketchbook Trip - Part 2
Guatemala Sketchbook Trip - Part 4
Tikal
Ixcacao, Fruit Vendor, Tuk tuk

Guatemala Sketchbook Trip - Part 2

One of my favorite places on our sketchbook workshop in Guatemala with Amy was the "Convento de las Capuchinas".  Upon entering the building one is immediately struck by the contrast between the dark, shadowy hallways and the brilliant light that fills the central courtyard with its burgeoning bougainvilleas and fountain. After wandering around the outer ruinous grounds and beautiful gardens I decided I wanted to draw the courtyard.  I found the perfect spot and nestled myself contentedly among the arches.  

It may appear that I have drawn the columns too fat and wide, but they really were quite stout.  Below you can see a photo showing the columns and the lovely arches.

The building was consecrated in 1736 but suffered damaged during the severe 1751 and 1773 earthquakes.  When I looked it up on Wikipedia it said there were two kinds of nuns that lived in the convent, "discalced" and "urban".  One of the differences between them was that the former were not allowed to drink chocolate and had to wear rustic clothing while the latter were allowed to drink chocolate and wear fine clothes and jewelry.  I think I know what I would choose. 

The view from upstairs was stunning and there was a well-maintained museum on the second floor.  We were not allowed to take photos but I got a quick sketch in of some amazing tinwork. 

The day after the convent we visited the "Parque Central" for more sketching opportunities.  I wanted to sketch this church but ran out of time.  It had so many statues on its facade it would have taken me forever!

I did, however, make a sketch of the fountain in the center of the park.  The fountain is called "Fuente de las Sirenas" or "Mermaid Fountain" and is rather risqué (IMHO).  Amy liked to call it "La Fuente de Leche".  I debated whether or not to ink this one in but decided that statuary is sometimes best left un-inked.

As I said in my last post, one of my favorite things to do in Antigua is to observe the woman who are often dressed in traditional clothing and frequently have something balanced on their heads.  I asked one of the women if it was hard to do and she said no... that she learned it when she was a little girl.

Another colorful site are the street fruit vendors.  I love their little covered carts that always have fruit piled high and some unknown, colorful bags hanging from them.   

The photo below shows two icons of Antigua: the famous arch, "El Arco" and a tuk tuk.  We ended up walking everywhere so I didn't get a chance to ride in one of them.  I imagine it is a bumpy ride on the cobblestone streets.

Just past "El Arco" is another church which is not to be missed called "El Merced."  The white decoration on the cream building reminded me of icing.

One morning we ate in an adorable restaurant right off the central park square and it had a fountain in each courtyard.  I really liked this fish fountain.

I love how the fountains run the gamut from the Virgin Mary to risqué mermaids.

I also couldn't resist including a photo of the millstones that are embedded in the streets.  I collect millstones and had to appreciate this detail.  Imagine how hard it must have been to carve the surrounding stone to fit them in.

As I sit here writing this blog post looking down at my feet, I wonder why I like this shape so much and the heart sutra comes to mind, "Form does not differ from Emptiness and Emptiness does not differ from Form.  Form is Emptiness and Emptiness is Form."  It reminds me that this life is full of contrasts that define each other...like the silent, dark hallways and light-filled courtyard of the convent at the beginning of this post.  To take the observation even further, I am also aware of the contrast between the vast effort and movement in traveling to the colorful, exotic Guatemalan highlands and the return to the grey, still days of sitting in front of my computer in Ohio. Both have their appeal... but I could not appreciate one without the other and herein lies the beauty and play of this life.

“That which is empty, is full of everything in the cosmos.” ― Meeta Ahluwalia

If you would like to read the other posts about this trip here are the links:

Guatemala Sketchbook Trip - Part 1

Guatemala Sketchbook Trip - Part 3
Guatemala Sketchbook Trip - Part 4
Tikal
Ixcacao, Fruit Vendor, Tuk tuk

Guatemala Sketchbook Trip - Part 1

Last week I attended Amy Bogard's Sketchbook Workshop in Antigua, Gautemala.  I wasn't sure what to expect, but the trip was utterly fantastic!  Guatemala is truly a feast for the senses. I was overwhelmed by the textures and colors of the textiles, the food was ricísimo and I can still hear the music and smell the incense from the Lenten Processions.  After a delicious breakfast every day, Amy brought us to a location to sketch.  Below you can see Amy on the roof of our posada with Volcán Agua behind her.

“The gladdest moment in human life, me thinks, is a departure into unknown lands.”
– Sir Richard Burton

Our whole group was composed of seven intrepid women sketchers.  There is something magical that happens when you bring a group of women together for "crafty" purposes...a bond is formed through storytelling, shared experience, and connecting from the heart.  For six lovely days we sketched, drank wine, explored, oohed and aahed, shopped and sampled the local cuisine. 

On our first night there we were eating dinner when someone spotted the Lenten Procession coming down our street.  "La Procesión", as it is called, is an incredible display of passion, devotion, and artistry.  When witnessing it one feels like they have stepped back in time...or into another world.  The strong smell of incense filled the night air and crowds lined the streets to get a view.  It was truly a sight to see and we were lucky to be in Antigua during this time.  This video shows two clips put together.  The first part is the "Mary" float held up by purple-robed devotees.  And in the second part of the video you can hear the sad dirge music that accompanies the floats.

The float with Jesus carrying the cross was double the size of Mary's float and must have weighed a ton. The float itself swayed back and forth as the men underneath stepped in unison. There were probably 40 men underneath with pained expressions on their faces.

The next morning on our way to breakfast I was soaking in the color and repetition of form.  More than once I almost hit my head on the window sills that stuck out from the buildings because I was distracted by all the sumptuous details.

Our first day of sketching we didn't even have to leave our posada.  I am going to have to do a whole post on our hotel because it was so fabulous.  It was chock full of antiques on every available surface.  One of our first assignments of the trip was to choose a theme and to do a spread.  It could be anything...a color, a material, or whatever possibilities you might imagine.  I chose to sketch the wooden saints.

Here is a photo of the wooden Joseph santos and a close-up of the sketch.

One morning for breakfast we went to a coffee shop called Bella Vista and it truly lived up to its name.  As we were sitting there sipping our coffee and eating huevos rancheros, Volcán Fuego decided to belch a little smoke.  It was awesome and a little scary...but apparently it does that quite often.

One of our first nights in Antigua we passed by this church called San Hermano Pedro.  I fell in love with all the detail and made a mental note to ask Amy if we could sketch it one day.

The next day some of the group sketched the outdoor "lavanderia" near the church and Christina and I set up our little stools by the sidewalk and sketched the church for an hour or so.  You can see her sketch here.

Here is a close-up of my wonky church.

“Man cannot discover new oceans unless he has the courage to lose sight of the shore.” – Andre Gide

As I get older I find it harder and harder to leave the comforts of my house.  But when I take a trip like this it reminds me of the joys of taking a chance and trying something new.  I was completely and utterly enamored with Guatemala.  I have traveled a fair amount in Latin American countries and I've never been to a place where the women actually wear their traditional clothing.  I could have sat in the central plaza all day just gazing at the beautiful women balancing their gorgeous hand-woven textiles on their heads.  If you even have a hint of interest in taking this course I would encourage you to do so.  This trip was like a breath of fresh, incensed air to my soul and I am so thankful to Amy for enabling me to lose sight of the shore for a while. 

If you would like to read the other posts about this trip here are the links:

Guatemala Sketchbook Trip - Part 2

Guatemala Sketchbook Trip - Part 3
Guatemala Sketchbook Trip - Part 4
Tikal
Ixcacao, Fruit Vendor, Tuk tuk

Coral Tree Linocut

In 2016 my husband George and I took a trip to Costa Rica.  George takes Xavier students every year to Costa Rica and as part of the trip we visit Bijagual Ecological Reserve.  In an previous blog post I wrote about how I spied some brightly colored seed pods down by the Bijagual river.   Little did I know how fateful that day would be.  At the time I photographed the pod and did a sketch and didn't think about it again until I was choosing the subject for my next linocut last year.   

Even if you had told me that it would be the most difficult linocut I have done to date, I don't think it would have stopped me.  I was so taken by the beautiful shape of the fruiting body...not to mention the colors.  And so last June I began sketching and planning the print.  Below you can see part of the sketch and the tracing to plan the layers.  (You can see the full pencil sketch and process video here).

Somehow between sketching, gardening, travel and visitors I didn't end up printing until the end of September.  I remember printing the first layer right before I went on a trip.  When I returned a week later I went down to look at the prints.  I pulled one out of the drying rack to inspect it and my heart sank when I noticed there was an error.  And it was not a small one.  I had forgotten to carve away a section of the plate that I wanted to be white.  At first I tried to play it off like it was no big deal and that I could live with it.  I mocked it up on my pencil sketch.  Then I mocked it up in color in Photoshop.  Finally after resisting for at least a week I realized the ugly truth...I had to re-print.  Below you can see my  mistake.

If you want to see all of my desperate mock-ups I posted them on my Nessy Press Facebook page here.
 
After making the decision to re-print I forged ahead.  Below you can see photos of the plate and the print at each stage.  This print was a mixture of reduction cuts and multiple plates.  I made separate plates for the red berries and the brown twig and pod centers.  The base cream color and final magenta color shared the same plate...meaning after I printed the cream color I carved the plate away.

Below you can see a video of me pulling the final color.  (Turn your volume up... I added music!)

(Music by the Polish Ambassador)

Here are a few carving shots along the way.  I posted more process shots on my Instagram account @nessydesigns. 

One super exciting thing that greatly helped me on this print was the purchase of an amazing, old drying rack at the Springfield antique show last September.  I don't think I would have had room to dry these giant prints without it.  Below you can see the drying rack and the final plate before and after inking.

One of my favorite things to do after I finish a print is to photograph the print close-up from a million angles .  Here are a few of those detail shots.

I have to admit this print pushed me to my limits and has been a great teacher.  The work forces me to accept reality...to accept mistakes that are made... to learn discernment...and to learn to enjoy both the highs and lows with as much equanimity as I can muster.  I have loved this print and hated it and then loved it again.  People often question me as to why I would want to spend eight months working on this print when I could have painted a hundred paintings.  And I am not sure why.  But I do know there is something to this struggle.  There is something achingly beautiful about giving it your all and not being a hundred percent sure it will turn out.   It is a delicate balance of fear and love this bringing something from the whisper of an idea to a finished piece of art.  Those coral red seeds planted themselves in the depths of my being and something grew...something grew. 
 

The Coral Tree print is now available at NessyPress.com.

"Do what you love.
Know your own bone; gnaw at it, bury it, unearth it, and gnaw it still."
—Henry David Thoreau